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IT was on the mile-an-hour bicycle American chat rooms new Okanagan from the fhat of Crystal Mountain, to the west, that I got my first panoramic view of Okanagan Lake, which stretches for Gay Prince George masseurs miles through the valley between the Cascade and Monashee Ranges. Even though I had seen the lake from mew shore for two days, as I blew out of the trees now with a group of touring cyclists, it came as a surprise: shimmering and cobalt blue, the hills at its sides covered by grapevines. This was the British Columbia of popular imagination, all steep-walled mountain valleys and spectacular snow-fed lakes, but with a bonus: a wine region aspiring to hold its own with the famous California valleys to the south. Part old-fashioned summer lake resort, part cycling center and traditionally the fruit basket of this part of Canada, the fertile, glacier-formed Okanagan pronounced oak-a-NOG-in Valley is changing fast as cherry orchards and nut farms lose ground to the vineyards and as tourism grows along with the grapes. Now, in the heart of the harvest season, days are clear and sunny, the air smells like apples, and grapes hang heavy on the vine. For American tourists who find their way there, the valley itself — a five-hour drive east of Vancouver or a one-hour flight from Seattle — seems like a discovery.

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As we headed south, sprawl soon gave way to sun-dappled elms and Saint-Hyacinthe gogo girls hills covered in cherry trees. Along for the ride were Bill and Mary Kennedy, Toronto residents who had come to the Okanagan expressly for the cycling.

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The Okanagan, a Napa of the North

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